Sunday, August 31, 2008
Finding Simple(r)
This weekend I ran a simple peach galette--or a rustic peach pie as I told the servers to call it for their less food knowledgeable patrons. The galette is a go-to dessert for me when I have to get rid of peaches, apples, pears, any fruit that shines from being baked. With a surfeit of peaches that were "about to shit the bed" as The exec says, the galette was a perfect choice. The assistants made a double batch of cornmeal galette dough on Thursday. Digging around in the freezer, I found a quart and a half of peach buttermilk ice cream. I supplemented that with another couple quarts last night, thus using more peaches. Peach sauce and fleur de sel caramel finished the plate. Simple. And sellable. We moved 10 on Friday (that was all I had) and 12 before I left on Saturday night.
Saturday, August 30, 2008
What A Week
Phew. I have almost made it to the end of a crazy week. School started back--teaching two classes this time. The Charleston Food + Wine Festival had its summer launch party which required some face time and lollipop crafting on my part. And the personal life was demanding its fair share of attention as well. Oh, and there is always my main job, which was a tad slow though it is gonna crank up over the next two days with the Labor Day weekend. All in all, I can't wait to take Monday off and sleep in (and then sit in front of the computer setting up on-line gradebooks and formatting recipes).
A couple of cool things happened at the launch party mentioned above. First, I had my own table and didn't have much to do, so I actually engaged folks in conversation. Talked to a bunch of people I have met along the way in this town and business. Saw Naomi from Charleston Mag and a whole bunch of former JWU folks who are now with the Charleston campus of the Art Institute. Second, I talked to two people I didn't know, but who remembered very specific things about my desserts. One was an AI student who really loved the tomato tart I did this summer. That was awesome to hear since I never got many takers on that dessert. He even remembered all of the componenets. Another talker was a fellow who had the monstrous S'More Napoleon last year on the night before Thanksgiving. He recalled it still as being good, but he was daunted at the time by how to approach eating the thing. This man gave me criticism I could stomach. Yep, that thing was huge, I agreed. Then I told him I would try better in the future to consider "eatability."
So I guess overcoming shyness and talking to people isn't too too terrible. (Even though there were some dopey socialites who had nothing but snide things to say, which led me to believe that they were the ones always ordering the creme brulee. Hah, enjoy that 55 grams of fat!)
A couple of cool things happened at the launch party mentioned above. First, I had my own table and didn't have much to do, so I actually engaged folks in conversation. Talked to a bunch of people I have met along the way in this town and business. Saw Naomi from Charleston Mag and a whole bunch of former JWU folks who are now with the Charleston campus of the Art Institute. Second, I talked to two people I didn't know, but who remembered very specific things about my desserts. One was an AI student who really loved the tomato tart I did this summer. That was awesome to hear since I never got many takers on that dessert. He even remembered all of the componenets. Another talker was a fellow who had the monstrous S'More Napoleon last year on the night before Thanksgiving. He recalled it still as being good, but he was daunted at the time by how to approach eating the thing. This man gave me criticism I could stomach. Yep, that thing was huge, I agreed. Then I told him I would try better in the future to consider "eatability."
So I guess overcoming shyness and talking to people isn't too too terrible. (Even though there were some dopey socialites who had nothing but snide things to say, which led me to believe that they were the ones always ordering the creme brulee. Hah, enjoy that 55 grams of fat!)
Thursday, August 28, 2008
Personal Assistant Wanted
The only requirement is you must work for free. Sounds like a great job to me.
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Sugar Roasted Pears
Sugar and egg white encased pears after roasting.
Sweet freedom.
Bourbon whipped cream, sugar roasted pear (filled with chocolate sauce and served on fleur de sel caramel), layered bread pudding (chocolate stout cake, honey wheat brioche)
I don't usually share recipes . . .
. . . but this blast from the past was requested, so why not? After all, it's even in the Treehouse book and I already have a homestyle version written.
Key Lime White Chocolate Cheesecake
Looking for a twist on key lime pie? I was. The result was this cheesecake. It is continually a hit. I have made 10” versions with graham cracker crusts, the 4 ounce cakes detailed here with homemade graham crackers, and one ounce minis with equally mini grahams. The elements of the traditional key lime pie morphed into a cheesecake, one of the most popular of all desserts in America, cannot help but be become a memorable capper to a fine meal.
The challenge of baking the perfect cheesecake is what brought me into the world of baking. As a novice in the kitchen, I spent hours trying to keep my cheesecakes from cracking, browning, and possessing unpalatable lumps of cream cheese. A tour through baking and pastry school and many years in the business have finally provided me with the tools to face the challenge and to bring amateur bakers with me.
Here are the four keys to cheesecake success: First, have all of the ingredients at room temperature. In the case of cheesecakes, the ingredients mix best at the same, warm temperature. Second, scrape the mixing bowl often. Don’t be afraid to get down in that mixing bowl and ferret out every lump of cream cheese. Fewer lumps result in less chance of overmixing because the batter becomes smoother more quickly. That leads to tip three: overmixing a cheesecake leads to the incorporation of too much air into the batter. When that extra air heats in the oven, steam is trapped, and the cake rises (this is termed “physical leavening”). While this is necessary in a soufflé, it is death to a cheesecake. When the “risen” cheesecake cools, the hot air in it cools and the entire cake shrinks. This results in cracking, which ruins the presentation. Finally, a water bath is crucial in producing that just right cheesecake. This entails surrounding the pan of cheesecake batter with a warm water bath while it bakes. The water insulates the cheesecake and protects against dramatic heat fluctuations.
Yields 12-4 ounce cheesecakes
1 1/2 pounds cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup sugar
pinch of nutmeg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 whole large eggs, room temperature
2 egg yolks, room temperature
1 pound quality white chocolate, finely chopped
6 ounces key lime juice, room temperature
2 tablespoons Meyer’s Dark Rum
1. Using an electric mixer, cream together cream cheese, sugar, nutmeg, and vanilla extract.
2. Add the room temperature eggs and yolks individually to the cream cheese mixture. Scrape the bowl often.
3. Melt the white chocolate by placing it in a microwave-safe container and cooking in 30 seconds increments at half power, stirring between each cooking interval. Continue cooking and stirring until chocolate is smooth.
4. Fold melted chocolate into the cream cheese base until completely incorporated.
5. Combine key lime juice and rum and fold into the batter.
6. Using pan spray, grease 12-4 ounce aluminum tins or a muffin pan with 12 cups. Divide the batter amongst the tins or cups filling each to within a 1/4” of the top.
7. Place tins or muffin pan in a sheet pan with at least a 3/4” lip. Put the pan of cheesecakes in a 325 degree oven and carefully fill the sheet pan to the top with hot water. Bake for 20 minutes--check for doneness. Continue baking as needed. The center of each cheesecake should be set.
8. Remove the cheesecakes from the oven and cool for one hour on a wire rack. For best results, chill overnight before unmolding.
Homemade Graham Crackers
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons butter, soft
1/2 cup honey
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/3 cup cold water
1. Combine all-purpose flour through salt in an electric mixer bowl. Using the paddle attachment, mix on low for 30 seconds.
2. Add the remaining ingredients and mix until just smooth.
3. Wrap and chill the dough, preferably overnight.
4. Roll the dough out to about 1/8” thick. Cut the dough with a round cookie cutter that is roughly the size of the base of the individual cheesecakes (The top of the cheesecake when it is in the forms is actually going to be the bottom when the dessert is presented).
5. Arrange the dough circles on a parchment lined baking sheet and bake at 325 degrees for approximately 8 minutes. The crackers should be golden in color and soft in texture.
6. Store at room temperature in an airtight container until needed.
Gingered Blueberry Compote
3 cups fresh blueberries
1/3 cup sugar
1-3”piece of ginger root, peeled and sliced thinly
juice of 1 lime
1. Combine all ingredients in a medium pot,
2. Stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves and berries release juice.
3. Simmer and cook until about half of the berries have burst, 3-4 minutes.
4. Chill and strain before using, reserving the syrup for the Magenta Lime Chips. Also be sure to remove the ginger slices from the compote before serving.
Magenta Lime Chips
2 limes
gingered blueberry syrup reserved from the making of Gingered Blueberry Compote
1. Using an electric slicer or a Japanese mandoline cut each lime into slices approximately 1/16” thick.
2. Soak the lime slices, excluding the smaller end pieces, overnight in the blueberry syrup.
3. Drain the syrup and place the slices in a single layer—not allowing them to touch—on a nonstick baking mat. Bake in a 200 degree oven for at least 2 hours or until dry and crisp when cool.
4. Store in an airtight container.
White Chocolate-Graham Cracker Moons
1 pound white chocolate, finely chopped
1/4 cup graham cracker crumbs
1. Melt the white chocolate by placing it in a microwave-safe container and cooking in 30 seconds increments at half power, stirring between each cooking interval. Continue cooking and stirring until chocolate is smooth.
2. Stir graham cracker crumbs into the melted chocolate.
3. Pour the mixture onto sheetpan lined with a non-stick baking mat and spread with a metal offset spatula until smooth.
4. Place the pan in the refrigerator until the chocolate is just barely set.
5. Using the same round cutter from slicing the graham crackers, cut out half moons. Do this by stamping out one circle, removing the cutter from the chocolate while leaving the chocolate circle in place, then moving to the right about half an inch and cutting another circle. Repeat for more moons.
6. Return the pan to the refrigerator and cool until the chocolate is completely set. Remove from the nonstick mat and store at room temperature until needed.
White Chocolate Sauce
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup corn syrup
3/4 cup water
10 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped
1. Combine sugar, corn syrup, and water and bring to boil. Remove from heat and add white chocolate to the pot. Allow the mixture to stand for two minutes.
2. Whisk until smooth.
3. Strain and chill.
To thin: add more warm water.
To thicken: add melted white chocolate.
To assemble the finished dessert:
Unmold the cheesecakes and place each on a graham cracker.
Place an even layer of blueberry compote approximately the same size of the graham cracker on a plate. Top with a graham-bottomed cheesecake.
Insert a Magenta Lime Chip and a White Chocolate-Graham Cracker Moon into the top of the cake.
Using a squeeze bottle, decorate the plate with white chocolate sauce.
Sprinkle some lime zest over the entire plate.
Serve.
Key Lime White Chocolate Cheesecake
Looking for a twist on key lime pie? I was. The result was this cheesecake. It is continually a hit. I have made 10” versions with graham cracker crusts, the 4 ounce cakes detailed here with homemade graham crackers, and one ounce minis with equally mini grahams. The elements of the traditional key lime pie morphed into a cheesecake, one of the most popular of all desserts in America, cannot help but be become a memorable capper to a fine meal.
The challenge of baking the perfect cheesecake is what brought me into the world of baking. As a novice in the kitchen, I spent hours trying to keep my cheesecakes from cracking, browning, and possessing unpalatable lumps of cream cheese. A tour through baking and pastry school and many years in the business have finally provided me with the tools to face the challenge and to bring amateur bakers with me.
Here are the four keys to cheesecake success: First, have all of the ingredients at room temperature. In the case of cheesecakes, the ingredients mix best at the same, warm temperature. Second, scrape the mixing bowl often. Don’t be afraid to get down in that mixing bowl and ferret out every lump of cream cheese. Fewer lumps result in less chance of overmixing because the batter becomes smoother more quickly. That leads to tip three: overmixing a cheesecake leads to the incorporation of too much air into the batter. When that extra air heats in the oven, steam is trapped, and the cake rises (this is termed “physical leavening”). While this is necessary in a soufflé, it is death to a cheesecake. When the “risen” cheesecake cools, the hot air in it cools and the entire cake shrinks. This results in cracking, which ruins the presentation. Finally, a water bath is crucial in producing that just right cheesecake. This entails surrounding the pan of cheesecake batter with a warm water bath while it bakes. The water insulates the cheesecake and protects against dramatic heat fluctuations.
Yields 12-4 ounce cheesecakes
1 1/2 pounds cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup sugar
pinch of nutmeg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 whole large eggs, room temperature
2 egg yolks, room temperature
1 pound quality white chocolate, finely chopped
6 ounces key lime juice, room temperature
2 tablespoons Meyer’s Dark Rum
1. Using an electric mixer, cream together cream cheese, sugar, nutmeg, and vanilla extract.
2. Add the room temperature eggs and yolks individually to the cream cheese mixture. Scrape the bowl often.
3. Melt the white chocolate by placing it in a microwave-safe container and cooking in 30 seconds increments at half power, stirring between each cooking interval. Continue cooking and stirring until chocolate is smooth.
4. Fold melted chocolate into the cream cheese base until completely incorporated.
5. Combine key lime juice and rum and fold into the batter.
6. Using pan spray, grease 12-4 ounce aluminum tins or a muffin pan with 12 cups. Divide the batter amongst the tins or cups filling each to within a 1/4” of the top.
7. Place tins or muffin pan in a sheet pan with at least a 3/4” lip. Put the pan of cheesecakes in a 325 degree oven and carefully fill the sheet pan to the top with hot water. Bake for 20 minutes--check for doneness. Continue baking as needed. The center of each cheesecake should be set.
8. Remove the cheesecakes from the oven and cool for one hour on a wire rack. For best results, chill overnight before unmolding.
Homemade Graham Crackers
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons butter, soft
1/2 cup honey
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/3 cup cold water
1. Combine all-purpose flour through salt in an electric mixer bowl. Using the paddle attachment, mix on low for 30 seconds.
2. Add the remaining ingredients and mix until just smooth.
3. Wrap and chill the dough, preferably overnight.
4. Roll the dough out to about 1/8” thick. Cut the dough with a round cookie cutter that is roughly the size of the base of the individual cheesecakes (The top of the cheesecake when it is in the forms is actually going to be the bottom when the dessert is presented).
5. Arrange the dough circles on a parchment lined baking sheet and bake at 325 degrees for approximately 8 minutes. The crackers should be golden in color and soft in texture.
6. Store at room temperature in an airtight container until needed.
Gingered Blueberry Compote
3 cups fresh blueberries
1/3 cup sugar
1-3”piece of ginger root, peeled and sliced thinly
juice of 1 lime
1. Combine all ingredients in a medium pot,
2. Stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves and berries release juice.
3. Simmer and cook until about half of the berries have burst, 3-4 minutes.
4. Chill and strain before using, reserving the syrup for the Magenta Lime Chips. Also be sure to remove the ginger slices from the compote before serving.
Magenta Lime Chips
2 limes
gingered blueberry syrup reserved from the making of Gingered Blueberry Compote
1. Using an electric slicer or a Japanese mandoline cut each lime into slices approximately 1/16” thick.
2. Soak the lime slices, excluding the smaller end pieces, overnight in the blueberry syrup.
3. Drain the syrup and place the slices in a single layer—not allowing them to touch—on a nonstick baking mat. Bake in a 200 degree oven for at least 2 hours or until dry and crisp when cool.
4. Store in an airtight container.
White Chocolate-Graham Cracker Moons
1 pound white chocolate, finely chopped
1/4 cup graham cracker crumbs
1. Melt the white chocolate by placing it in a microwave-safe container and cooking in 30 seconds increments at half power, stirring between each cooking interval. Continue cooking and stirring until chocolate is smooth.
2. Stir graham cracker crumbs into the melted chocolate.
3. Pour the mixture onto sheetpan lined with a non-stick baking mat and spread with a metal offset spatula until smooth.
4. Place the pan in the refrigerator until the chocolate is just barely set.
5. Using the same round cutter from slicing the graham crackers, cut out half moons. Do this by stamping out one circle, removing the cutter from the chocolate while leaving the chocolate circle in place, then moving to the right about half an inch and cutting another circle. Repeat for more moons.
6. Return the pan to the refrigerator and cool until the chocolate is completely set. Remove from the nonstick mat and store at room temperature until needed.
White Chocolate Sauce
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup corn syrup
3/4 cup water
10 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped
1. Combine sugar, corn syrup, and water and bring to boil. Remove from heat and add white chocolate to the pot. Allow the mixture to stand for two minutes.
2. Whisk until smooth.
3. Strain and chill.
To thin: add more warm water.
To thicken: add melted white chocolate.
To assemble the finished dessert:
Unmold the cheesecakes and place each on a graham cracker.
Place an even layer of blueberry compote approximately the same size of the graham cracker on a plate. Top with a graham-bottomed cheesecake.
Insert a Magenta Lime Chip and a White Chocolate-Graham Cracker Moon into the top of the cake.
Using a squeeze bottle, decorate the plate with white chocolate sauce.
Sprinkle some lime zest over the entire plate.
Serve.
Saturday, August 23, 2008
13 Things--Number 2
There are no sick days in a restaurant.
True and not true. From what I have seen, the FOH staff is keenly aware that if they are ill, it presents a poor portrait of the restaurant to our customers. And while it all does come down to money--if I am sick, my service will be compromised and the guest will not tip as well--they pretty much call out when they feel unwell.
As for the BOH, there is an unwritten code. I had to learn it myself way back in the day. If you are sick, especially that first date of your incapacitating illness, you show up for work. And you make an effort to work. And if you are really that sick, the chef sends you home. One reason is that this allows the chef to eschew hangovers as a reason for not working. Another is that he can rearrange the set up of cooks when he sees just how many reservations are on and what the night looks like. Plus, it gives that chef faith that his staff is dedicated.
Of course, in both cases of BOH and FOh if you go home, you don't get paid. These are hourly employees. And as for the salaried employees, there in no allowance in my company for sick days. If you come in and get sent home, or miss the next day and so on, you are taking vacation days or working off those missed hours in the week to come. Allowances are made on a case by case basis. But if you have a severe cold and can't work two days this week, you are probably gonna work seven days next.
So no official sick days. But no human health hazards running rampant through the kitchen either.
True and not true. From what I have seen, the FOH staff is keenly aware that if they are ill, it presents a poor portrait of the restaurant to our customers. And while it all does come down to money--if I am sick, my service will be compromised and the guest will not tip as well--they pretty much call out when they feel unwell.
As for the BOH, there is an unwritten code. I had to learn it myself way back in the day. If you are sick, especially that first date of your incapacitating illness, you show up for work. And you make an effort to work. And if you are really that sick, the chef sends you home. One reason is that this allows the chef to eschew hangovers as a reason for not working. Another is that he can rearrange the set up of cooks when he sees just how many reservations are on and what the night looks like. Plus, it gives that chef faith that his staff is dedicated.
Of course, in both cases of BOH and FOh if you go home, you don't get paid. These are hourly employees. And as for the salaried employees, there in no allowance in my company for sick days. If you come in and get sent home, or miss the next day and so on, you are taking vacation days or working off those missed hours in the week to come. Allowances are made on a case by case basis. But if you have a severe cold and can't work two days this week, you are probably gonna work seven days next.
So no official sick days. But no human health hazards running rampant through the kitchen either.
Friday, August 22, 2008
13 Things--Number 1
Sambal sent me "Thirteen Things Your Waiter Won't Tell You" a few weeks back. Being slightly evil, I forwarded it around a little. My brother asked me if there was any truth to the points. I thought I might riff a little on which ones I think are most valid, at least in my experience.
1. Avoid going out on busy nights. Hmm, I would say this is true if you want a leisurely, relaxed meal. On busy nights, it is the job of everyone in a restaurant to turn the tables. Hostesses must seat promptly. Servers must greet immediately and get drinks on the table. Apps and all other courses have to come out in a timely fashion. But when every table wants to be seated at 8 PM on a Saturday night in November or on New Year's Eve, there is gonna be a problem.
In my experience, Thursday and Sunday nights are an excellent night for fine dining. Specials are being run. There are fewer diners, so the mood of the restaurant is less frenetic. On Thursday, the chef is there usually (Sunday and Monday are most often the days when exec's are off). On Sunday, the staff is more relaxed after pushing through the weekend. Just don't come in past 8 on a Sunday. The restaurant may be open until 10, but on the slower nights the kitchen is in the process of shutting down way before then.
Of course, this also how I see things after 7 years at the same restaurant. I am looking at it from a BOH position foremost as the person responsible for the final course. So you know I am biased.
1. Avoid going out on busy nights. Hmm, I would say this is true if you want a leisurely, relaxed meal. On busy nights, it is the job of everyone in a restaurant to turn the tables. Hostesses must seat promptly. Servers must greet immediately and get drinks on the table. Apps and all other courses have to come out in a timely fashion. But when every table wants to be seated at 8 PM on a Saturday night in November or on New Year's Eve, there is gonna be a problem.
In my experience, Thursday and Sunday nights are an excellent night for fine dining. Specials are being run. There are fewer diners, so the mood of the restaurant is less frenetic. On Thursday, the chef is there usually (Sunday and Monday are most often the days when exec's are off). On Sunday, the staff is more relaxed after pushing through the weekend. Just don't come in past 8 on a Sunday. The restaurant may be open until 10, but on the slower nights the kitchen is in the process of shutting down way before then.
Of course, this also how I see things after 7 years at the same restaurant. I am looking at it from a BOH position foremost as the person responsible for the final course. So you know I am biased.
Thursday, August 21, 2008
I Love This Blog
This is the best blog ever. I am in love. Already I feel this one's influence. Mmmmmmm-hmmmmm good.
I tried her sugar crusted bananas this week. Added cardamom, cinnamon, and nutmeg to the sugar. Exquisite.
I sugar crusted and baked some tart and not quite ripe local pears tonight. First I infused the hard ass pears with Maker's Mark and sucked the hell out of 'em on 10 in the cryovac machine. I let those rest a bit. Then I baked them in some swell sugar shells. No spices this time since I was all about the bourbon. The finished texture was amazing--that grainy peariness with the accompanying yield of a perfectly poached Bosc. Heaven.
I tried her sugar crusted bananas this week. Added cardamom, cinnamon, and nutmeg to the sugar. Exquisite.
I sugar crusted and baked some tart and not quite ripe local pears tonight. First I infused the hard ass pears with Maker's Mark and sucked the hell out of 'em on 10 in the cryovac machine. I let those rest a bit. Then I baked them in some swell sugar shells. No spices this time since I was all about the bourbon. The finished texture was amazing--that grainy peariness with the accompanying yield of a perfectly poached Bosc. Heaven.
To The Man Who Thought The Avocado Sorbet Was Ice Cream
Ice cream contains cream.
Sorbet does not contain any dairy.
Sherbet contains milk, not cream.
I know the difference; it is my job.
The avocado sorbet does not contain cream, hence the sorbet classification. It is creamy because of all that delicious fat in the avocado.
Lactose intolerance is a nasty thing. I would not knowingly allow someone who can't have dairy any dairy.
I know the difference; it is my job.
Sorbet does not contain any dairy.
Sherbet contains milk, not cream.
I know the difference; it is my job.
The avocado sorbet does not contain cream, hence the sorbet classification. It is creamy because of all that delicious fat in the avocado.
Lactose intolerance is a nasty thing. I would not knowingly allow someone who can't have dairy any dairy.
I know the difference; it is my job.
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
School's Starting
It always seems too soon, but the first day of school for me is a week from tomorrow. I will be teaching basic bakeshop on Wednesday mornings and advanced bakeshop on Friday mornings. And we all know that is in addition to my first and foremost gig and all those little things I do on the side.
I was talking to a cook yesterday about school. He asked me if I get nervous teaching. And I told him that I did. But my main worries are not regarding getting up in front of people and talking and all that stuff. That used to be the scariest thing. Now I just obsess over whether I am going to be late to class. That is my biggest fear. Oversleeping. The thought just sets me to sweating. But I have made it through two semesters of these early classes, so I think I can do it again.
Why do I teach? The original reason was based on simple economics. With student loan and credit card debt, I was unable to afford the new (to me) vehicle I desperately needed. Teaching helped make a new car a reality. Then it morphed into a great tool for making me even better at my job. I hadn't made pate a choux since school and here I was teaching it. Better get some practice in. My grasp of the fundamental and traditional techniques of my profession strengthened.
From there I began to learn new things because I had to teach them. When I started teaching Advanced I had to rely heavily upon the instructor who designed the class. She had worked in more kitchens than I and had more experience in making entremets and petit fours. Without her to hold me up, I would not have succeeded. Heck, she finally taught me how to make a chocolate cigarette. So my teaching came to fulfill my need to be taught. There are so many aspects of my job that I have had to learn myself by way of books and the internet. Once I got to the top pastry position in my restaurant, there was no one at my job from whom I could learn everyday. So I have a million books now and tons of tattered printouts from the net.
And I have learned. And I am learning. If I could afford a Notter class and three or four days off from work, I would be there. But I can't, so I will continue to immerse myself in books and blogs.
Where will teaching take me? I have some nebulous plans for the future. Teaching seems to be the one definite in those plans. Let's just see how this fall semester goes. I know I'm stoked.
I was talking to a cook yesterday about school. He asked me if I get nervous teaching. And I told him that I did. But my main worries are not regarding getting up in front of people and talking and all that stuff. That used to be the scariest thing. Now I just obsess over whether I am going to be late to class. That is my biggest fear. Oversleeping. The thought just sets me to sweating. But I have made it through two semesters of these early classes, so I think I can do it again.
Why do I teach? The original reason was based on simple economics. With student loan and credit card debt, I was unable to afford the new (to me) vehicle I desperately needed. Teaching helped make a new car a reality. Then it morphed into a great tool for making me even better at my job. I hadn't made pate a choux since school and here I was teaching it. Better get some practice in. My grasp of the fundamental and traditional techniques of my profession strengthened.
From there I began to learn new things because I had to teach them. When I started teaching Advanced I had to rely heavily upon the instructor who designed the class. She had worked in more kitchens than I and had more experience in making entremets and petit fours. Without her to hold me up, I would not have succeeded. Heck, she finally taught me how to make a chocolate cigarette. So my teaching came to fulfill my need to be taught. There are so many aspects of my job that I have had to learn myself by way of books and the internet. Once I got to the top pastry position in my restaurant, there was no one at my job from whom I could learn everyday. So I have a million books now and tons of tattered printouts from the net.
And I have learned. And I am learning. If I could afford a Notter class and three or four days off from work, I would be there. But I can't, so I will continue to immerse myself in books and blogs.
Where will teaching take me? I have some nebulous plans for the future. Teaching seems to be the one definite in those plans. Let's just see how this fall semester goes. I know I'm stoked.
Monday, August 18, 2008
Happy 88th Birthday, Grandma!
We were a few days early, but celebrate we did. Yesterday the family convened to recognize my paternal grandmother's 88th birthday. Of course, I made the cake. And, of course, it was coconut. That was grandma's cake when I was younger. Every Thanksgiving and Christmas and probably Easter, she made that cake. The 1-2-3-4 cake recipe from the back of the Swans Down cake flour box, seven minute icing, and fresh coconut combined to be my most anticipated dessert of my year. I still don't know how she prevented the icing from getting grainy. I'll be damned if my doesn't stay grainy and deflate. (I have since given up and just go with heavily Malibu'd buttercream.)
And for at least Christmas, (my now late) Grandpa made the fruit salad. We called it ambrosia even though I now know that it included too many fruits to be a proper ambrosia (coconut, pineapple, orange only). Now that I think about it, that fruit salad and fried bologna sandwiches were the only two things I remember Grandpa "cooking." Anyhow, he was in charge of the fruit salad and cracking and shaving the fresh coconut for the cake.
Yesterday, when dad handed me a hammer to pierce the eyes and crack the coconut for Grandma's cake, he told me that I was using Grandpa's hammer. We aren't the most sentimental family, but that meant something to me. . . and obviously my dad, too. Grandad has been gone since right before Christmas of 1999. And I can tell you I have sorely missed that fruit salad of his every year. I still make it during the holidays for our family. And I make it at Thanksgiving at the Treehouse when we have the best family meal of the year. My coconut cake is always there, too. The two just naturally go together like my grandparents still seem to do . . . though one is gone.
The cake yesterday. . . well, I don't have a picture, but it was three tiers high. And despite her concern for her cholesterol level, Grandma worked her way through 1/2 of the 3" top tier. And you know she got the rest wrapped up to take home and enjoy later. I wouldn't have had it any other way.
And for at least Christmas, (my now late) Grandpa made the fruit salad. We called it ambrosia even though I now know that it included too many fruits to be a proper ambrosia (coconut, pineapple, orange only). Now that I think about it, that fruit salad and fried bologna sandwiches were the only two things I remember Grandpa "cooking." Anyhow, he was in charge of the fruit salad and cracking and shaving the fresh coconut for the cake.
Yesterday, when dad handed me a hammer to pierce the eyes and crack the coconut for Grandma's cake, he told me that I was using Grandpa's hammer. We aren't the most sentimental family, but that meant something to me. . . and obviously my dad, too. Grandad has been gone since right before Christmas of 1999. And I can tell you I have sorely missed that fruit salad of his every year. I still make it during the holidays for our family. And I make it at Thanksgiving at the Treehouse when we have the best family meal of the year. My coconut cake is always there, too. The two just naturally go together like my grandparents still seem to do . . . though one is gone.
The cake yesterday. . . well, I don't have a picture, but it was three tiers high. And despite her concern for her cholesterol level, Grandma worked her way through 1/2 of the 3" top tier. And you know she got the rest wrapped up to take home and enjoy later. I wouldn't have had it any other way.
Sunday, August 17, 2008
Saturday was a bust
Boo, hiss. Saturday was lay-aim. Didn't sell much of anything. Period. So the simplicity experiment must continue.
I didn't take a pic of the special because it never became what I wanted. It was tasty, but not what I had envisioned. I did snap a pic of the woven joconde. I liked it, but the pink was too Pepto Bismol. Maybe I should just do chocolate and vanilla next time. Ah, that's a good idea.
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Simple Part II
Well, the special was gonna be sexier. But when I got to work, the ovens (I call mine) were in use, so there went my opportunity to get the three hour 200 degree, meringue drying process done by 5. Okay, so I scrapped that. Next a trip into the walk-in proved that the raspberries that somehow appeared on my day off --getting rid of them was the main reason for doing this special--were getting a little long in the tooth. Well, I guessed we needed to skip just the solo raspberry aspect of the dessert, and make it a berry party. Then I stepped in the freezer and found some cryovac-ed blackberries. Hmmm, 86 the raspberry consomme, I'm making good ol' mixed berry sauce. A little bit bit of fresh raspberries, a little bit of fresh blueberries, toss in those frozen blackberries and an equal amount of cryo'ed strawberries, add a little sugar, and liven it up with some lemon juice and a couple of old vanilla bean pods and boil. Puree, strain, love it. I still had the joconde and I wove it into strips like i planned (and got a headache with all the damned concentrating on not tearing the cake). The ice cream was amazing, so of course it stayed. (Our professional ice cream machine spins the base too quickly and too cold. If you pour in a French style, creme anglaise base--or Philadelphia style with all its cream for that matter--you make buttered ice cream. In the past I have simply reduced the amount of cream in my anglaise bases to almost nothing and increased the egg yolk substantially. The product is good, but not as good as what I want to produce. I have since bought a couple of 1 qt tabletop ice cream churns so that I can make proper ice cream. These were used for this vanilla bean ice cream, as was the Bouchon ice cream recipe with the addition of a pinch of salt and a slight reduction in the amount if sugar.)
And what did I end up with? Berries and cream. Sold three last night. We'll she how she flies tonight. We had some killer sales with the molten changes I implemented last night, so I can't wait to see what happens tonight. I think we sold 30 some odd moltens on a fairly slow Friday, in addition to a good amount of all the other desserts except souffles. I need a few more nights to see if this forgetting-my-ego-and-giving-'em-what-they-want stuff is where I need to and can go.
And what did I end up with? Berries and cream. Sold three last night. We'll she how she flies tonight. We had some killer sales with the molten changes I implemented last night, so I can't wait to see what happens tonight. I think we sold 30 some odd moltens on a fairly slow Friday, in addition to a good amount of all the other desserts except souffles. I need a few more nights to see if this forgetting-my-ego-and-giving-'em-what-they-want stuff is where I need to and can go.
Friday, August 15, 2008
Your favorite?
What is your favorite dessert?
I really wanna know. Your answers inspire me.
I love too many things to name just one. Here are three: pecan brown butter financiers; soft, underbaked chocolate chip cookies three minutes out of the oven; my grandmother's coconut cake with 7 minute icing.
So what is your favorite?
I really wanna know. Your answers inspire me.
I love too many things to name just one. Here are three: pecan brown butter financiers; soft, underbaked chocolate chip cookies three minutes out of the oven; my grandmother's coconut cake with 7 minute icing.
So what is your favorite?
Hashing it out
Sometimes when I am writing about my job, I feel like I get too whiny. Nobody likes my Margarita Granita. Everybody wants that boring ass molten cake. Wah, wah, wah. I recognize the negativity. And it even gets on my nerves.
As I have been reading the few comments I get on this blog, I realize that I am not alone in my reaction to being a little lost in Candy Land. That is comforting. Also I am getting whole new perspectives on my situation. That is also comforting because it proves again that I am not the only one out here trying to wrap my mind around the dessert consumer. Heck, I only ever order dessert at restaurants for personal inspiration. My favorite meal closer is a Bailey's and coffee. So I definitely need another point of view or twelve. (As long as the POV is conveyed in a polite and respectful manner, that is. "You suck!" does nothing for me.)
This leads me to why I blog in the first place. When I started I was just trying to give far away friends a way to keep up with me. Slowly I began to realize that the writing was also a cheap form of therapy. Then I started seeing the blog as an excellent way to keep track of what I produce and where my career is going. Now I see it as a way to feel less isolated in my kitchen.
That being said, I am off to make some vanilla vacherins for tonight's special. I know I said I needed to go simpler, but old habits die hard. The simplest thing about this dessert is that it will only have two dominant flavors: vanilla and raspberry. From there, it is a bit out of control. Nothing crazy, just a lot of old techniques tossed together. Joconde. French style vanilla ice cream. Raspberry consomme. Dried meringues. We'll see if it still looks/sounds too complicated once it gets on the plate.
As I have been reading the few comments I get on this blog, I realize that I am not alone in my reaction to being a little lost in Candy Land. That is comforting. Also I am getting whole new perspectives on my situation. That is also comforting because it proves again that I am not the only one out here trying to wrap my mind around the dessert consumer. Heck, I only ever order dessert at restaurants for personal inspiration. My favorite meal closer is a Bailey's and coffee. So I definitely need another point of view or twelve. (As long as the POV is conveyed in a polite and respectful manner, that is. "You suck!" does nothing for me.)
This leads me to why I blog in the first place. When I started I was just trying to give far away friends a way to keep up with me. Slowly I began to realize that the writing was also a cheap form of therapy. Then I started seeing the blog as an excellent way to keep track of what I produce and where my career is going. Now I see it as a way to feel less isolated in my kitchen.
That being said, I am off to make some vanilla vacherins for tonight's special. I know I said I needed to go simpler, but old habits die hard. The simplest thing about this dessert is that it will only have two dominant flavors: vanilla and raspberry. From there, it is a bit out of control. Nothing crazy, just a lot of old techniques tossed together. Joconde. French style vanilla ice cream. Raspberry consomme. Dried meringues. We'll see if it still looks/sounds too complicated once it gets on the plate.
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Phoning it in
I am so passive aggressive. Always have been and always will be. Confrontation is icky, but quiet little things that make others miserable are great. I know, very grown up. So mature. But it is something in my character that I can't get rid of. . . and really probably don't wanna get rid of since it channels my frustration.
As a result of this personality "issue," I have dumbed down those two desserts on the menu that sell the most, have the highest profit margin, and bore me to absolute tears: vanilla bean creme brulee and the molten cake.
I refer to them affectionately as "the pudding" and "an underbaked brownie."
The pudding has nothing on it. Nothing. No fruit. No cookie. Nothing. Back in the day I just got tired of watching people eat around the berries that we placed on top of the crust. They literally ate the custard from beneath the berries leaving a little caramelized sugar shelf with the precariously perched berries teetering over the abyss. This happened ever so frequently. And forget about the pistachio or hazelnut sablee we served with the brulee. More of those went in the trash than in the mouth. Handrounded truffles were a bomb as well. Biscotti, bye bye. The only thing that kinda sorta worked were the uber mini chocolate cupcakes we paired with the custard. But I am a snob and that flirtation with the cupcake craze was short lived. So the brulee is naked now. Plate, artichoke fold, dish of crispy pudding. Nothing else. And no one has complained.
The molten cake, well, I have tried many, many approaches to liven that one up. The peanut butter molten had all the accompaniments a Reese's lover would dig: slam bang pb parfait, pb caramel filling, pb caramel sauce, etc. No go. We want just cake and vanilla ice cream. How about the espresso and coffee themed cake? Sorry, but no. Just cake and ice cream. There are two couples that come in every October and ask for plain moltens. Can we just get one without a non-chocolate filling and with vanilla ice cream, they'd ask via the Director of Operations. A local concierge said it should just be chocolate and vanilla. And so I gave up. Hell, I don't like the thing anyhow, so why fight it. Oh, yeah, I threw some roasted beets on the plate with a chocolate beet sauce this spring. But the beets were always scraped to the side and sales went down. Ergo, chocolate cake, chocolate sauce (a simple ganache that we keep liquid by storing on top of the deck oven during service), and vanilla bean ice cream. No garnish. No love. And I charge $10 for it. And it sells.
But I have to add something back in. So I am going to throw a little chocolate toffee on the plate. Add in fresh strawberries. Get off my lazy ass and do a tempered dark chocolate garnish. I also dried strawberry chips that I will crush into a powder, blend with 10X, and use as the finishing sprinkle.
And all this I will do until I lose my patience again and passive aggression breeds more hate within me. In that vein, I am already hearing a suggestion to increase the price and decrease the size. Good thing I saved that suggestion here.
As a result of this personality "issue," I have dumbed down those two desserts on the menu that sell the most, have the highest profit margin, and bore me to absolute tears: vanilla bean creme brulee and the molten cake.
I refer to them affectionately as "the pudding" and "an underbaked brownie."
The pudding has nothing on it. Nothing. No fruit. No cookie. Nothing. Back in the day I just got tired of watching people eat around the berries that we placed on top of the crust. They literally ate the custard from beneath the berries leaving a little caramelized sugar shelf with the precariously perched berries teetering over the abyss. This happened ever so frequently. And forget about the pistachio or hazelnut sablee we served with the brulee. More of those went in the trash than in the mouth. Handrounded truffles were a bomb as well. Biscotti, bye bye. The only thing that kinda sorta worked were the uber mini chocolate cupcakes we paired with the custard. But I am a snob and that flirtation with the cupcake craze was short lived. So the brulee is naked now. Plate, artichoke fold, dish of crispy pudding. Nothing else. And no one has complained.
The molten cake, well, I have tried many, many approaches to liven that one up. The peanut butter molten had all the accompaniments a Reese's lover would dig: slam bang pb parfait, pb caramel filling, pb caramel sauce, etc. No go. We want just cake and vanilla ice cream. How about the espresso and coffee themed cake? Sorry, but no. Just cake and ice cream. There are two couples that come in every October and ask for plain moltens. Can we just get one without a non-chocolate filling and with vanilla ice cream, they'd ask via the Director of Operations. A local concierge said it should just be chocolate and vanilla. And so I gave up. Hell, I don't like the thing anyhow, so why fight it. Oh, yeah, I threw some roasted beets on the plate with a chocolate beet sauce this spring. But the beets were always scraped to the side and sales went down. Ergo, chocolate cake, chocolate sauce (a simple ganache that we keep liquid by storing on top of the deck oven during service), and vanilla bean ice cream. No garnish. No love. And I charge $10 for it. And it sells.
But I have to add something back in. So I am going to throw a little chocolate toffee on the plate. Add in fresh strawberries. Get off my lazy ass and do a tempered dark chocolate garnish. I also dried strawberry chips that I will crush into a powder, blend with 10X, and use as the finishing sprinkle.
And all this I will do until I lose my patience again and passive aggression breeds more hate within me. In that vein, I am already hearing a suggestion to increase the price and decrease the size. Good thing I saved that suggestion here.
Monday, August 11, 2008
On the road to simpler
Chocolate Raspberry Torte
***Stout Chocolate Cake
***Milk Chocolate Mousse
***Raspberry Sauce (thickened with lots of pectin)
***Fresh Raspberries
***Orange Juice Reduction
***Orange Segments
***Sugar Squiggle
Confusion
I am finding that I am ready to venture even further afield in the pastry arts (having grown accustomed to the more basic presentations) and I am torn. It seems that the clientele want simplicity. Yes, it is the time of year when diners of a different calibre frequent the Treehouse. However, considering how many of the simpler, plainer desserts we sell, I am wondering what to do. Should I go back to desserts that have little challenge for me, but in terms of business are sure winners? Do I try to push on with Margarita Granita's, Sweet Tomato Tarts, and their ilk? Shall I do as my number one cook suggested and start handing out coupons for Applebee's so everyone can just get their ice cream and brownie? I have a marble for chocolate work; should I break it out and start mixing housemade gummy worms and housemade oreo crumbs with housemade vanilla ice cream and serve it in housemade waffle cones?
At home I am doing a major clean out. I am tossing stuff left and right. While in the middle of a pile of photographs, I found pictures I took of my predecessor's desserts for my internship project. Simple, I kept thinking. For the most part, the style was simple. And that pushed me further along in considering a sparser, more refined direction for my creations.
I tried simpler this weekend with the special and it sold. But it was chocolate. And that almost always sells. Well, a menu change lurks in the future, so I will go with sparser, familiar, desserty items. Let us see where that little experiment puts us.
At home I am doing a major clean out. I am tossing stuff left and right. While in the middle of a pile of photographs, I found pictures I took of my predecessor's desserts for my internship project. Simple, I kept thinking. For the most part, the style was simple. And that pushed me further along in considering a sparser, more refined direction for my creations.
I tried simpler this weekend with the special and it sold. But it was chocolate. And that almost always sells. Well, a menu change lurks in the future, so I will go with sparser, familiar, desserty items. Let us see where that little experiment puts us.
Thursday, August 07, 2008
Charleston Magazine
A good day today. I am being featured in next month's issue of Charleston Magazine. This ol' pastry chef feels pretty privileged. Pictures of my food were taken with utmost care. The energy I put into my desserts these folks put into making them look even better. Thanks to Marion for getting me to write what I needed to, to Roo for exercising his own simpatico creative beliefs and capturing great shots, to Kathy for styling her ass off, and to Justin for telling me that silly Polaroids joke. Great people doing great things. Could I tear up? Maybe.
Wednesday, August 06, 2008
A bit of a mess, but tasty nonetheless
I hit fig season on the tail end this year. Brevity of season and my vacation coincided to shorten my fig communing this summer. But I got one in with fig frozen yogurt (I used Greek yogurt and fell in love) wrapped in a sweet crepe, topped with honey roasted figs, candied pistachios, and a Cabernet reduction.
We didn't sell to many of these tasty tributes to a local beauty, which blew my mind because crepes are almost always a sure sell. Once again, a plate full of flavor, textural and temperature contrasts, and local love is overlooked in favor of the standards.
But, YDPC, remember it is summer in Charleston and adventure is stifled by the low blood flow to the brain caused by overtightend fanny pack straps, constant 60 SPF inhalation. and overdosing on fried (definitely not local) seafood.
Carolina Peach Pies
I have never been much of a pie fan. The fruit filling was always too gooey and sweet. Treacly. Never liked the crust much. And speaking of crust, I can never get it to look perfect on the finished product. Once all the sticky fruit and egg wash gets in the picture, I just don't have the patience with pinching and crimping. So when one of our favorite cooks answered "peach pie" to my query regarding any birthday requests, I felt a little disheartened.
However, I made the offer, so peach pie it was. Fresh peaches, too. And I think that made the difference in regards to the sweetness of the filling. Not too much. The Maker's Mark added liberally wasn't a bad addition either.
The crust, well, goo it did. But I did my best and remembered I wasn't in a State Fair competition or at a Mrs. Smith's photo shoot. I planned to do both pies with lattice crusts, but lost my interest in that after the first one. The second pie just had the old double crust. And for the vent I cut out the birthday cook's first initial.
Pies ain't so rough, I guess. Just don't tell my dad that or I will be making pies for him every time I see him.
Huckleberry Tomatoes
The Exec got these huckleberry tomatoes in from the Chef's Garden in Ohio. They are so tiny and so sweet that I actually liked them. The baby heirlooms behind the hucks are from a local farmer.
Monday, August 04, 2008
What I Learned Today
Never, even if your t-shirt is splattered with chocolate, is rife with armpit holes, and smells, are you to wear your chef coat into Whole Foods. That is, unless you want to have a conversation with every single other customer in the store. Sorry, I don't work here and I have no idea where anything is myself. Next time I am gonna do what Charlie suggested and just answer, "Aisle 4."
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